Thanks for the kudos.

One step I forgot to mention:

Solderwick comes in a little plastic spool/case. You pull out as
much as you need and then clip it off with snips once it's been
used (filled with solder). I highly recommend that you hold the
solderwick by the plastic holder when using it.

If you don't - the solderwick being such that it's designed to
conduct heat, in the few seconds you'll have hold it in place to lift
the solder, you yourself is going to heat up like an imp if you hold
it by the braiding.

You've been warned!


--- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "(i think you can figure
that out)" <peter@b...> wrote:

> The original Cliff jacks had a problem with long term spring
> retention - 'memory' if you will.
>
> With a lot of usage the retention changes, creating (at times)

an

> insufficient hold on the tip. The net effect - intermittancy. Not
> exactly a feature you look for in a socket!
>
> Replacement is easy with the right tools - those being solder
> wick, a good iron with a narrow tip that won't get too hot and a

set

> of spanner wrenches. In that the pads that these jacks

connect

> to are huge, there's really no worry about lifting them through

the

> use of the solder wick as there is with small pads.
>
> It's a bit tircky as the solder connections are in some cases on
> the component side of the board, but really, you just have to get
> the positioning of the iron down and you're set.
>
> After removing the PCBA from the faceplate, this is what you

do:

>
> 1) Place a section of solder wick over the solder fillet (junction)
> you wish to remove. Solderwick is flat braided copper wire

which

> draws solder into it with heat.
>
> 2) Place the iron over the solderwick, applying slight pressure
> (don't overdo it). Make sure that you're holding the tip of the

iron

> directly over the solder you wish to remove (remember, that is
> now covered by the solderwick itself).
>
> 3) Hold it for a few seconds. You will see the copper wick
> become filled with silver. This is the solder lifting from the area
> you're wishing to remove and flowing into the wick.
>
> 4) Lift the iron and the wick. Vwa- LA! You'll now see a lead
> going into a hole with no solder filllet.
>
> 5) Repeat four times (four terminals of the jack).
>
> 6) Lift the old jack out - If all the solder has been removed it will
> come out freely. If it doesn't, then you haven't removed all of the
> solder you need to. DON'T TUG! Look it over, find the section
> that's still there and repeat the wicking process to that area.
>
> 7) Place the new jack where the old one once was and solder

it's

> terminals onto the original holes.
>
> I highly recommend that you use sufficent anti-static

precautions

> when doing this. Although not all Doepfer modules use CMOS
> parts, looking it over to see if it does you might be handling it
> enough to blap the CMOS if in fact it's there. It's better to just

put

> on the wrist wrap before and not worry about it.
>
> Another thing you need to be careful of: In that Cliff jacks don't
> use washers under the mounting nuts, when removing the
> hardware from the faceplate to remove the PCBA, make damn
> sure you have sockets or spanners. If you use an adjustable
> cresent wrench, if the end of that comes in contact with the
> faceplate, you will scratch a nice (not!) little ring around the

holes

> as you loosen or tighten the hardware. Won't make too much
> difference with the pots as the knob wil cover up any scratches
> but with jacks you are screwed. . Obviously, you want to avoid
> that. Even with spanners or sockets, just look carefuy tomake

re

> i' not down to the faceplate
>
> I did my LFO last night (six jacks) in about ten minutes.
>
> hope this helps -
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
> --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "unknown freak"
> <vogelscheiss@v...> wrote:
> > Two questions:
> >
> > - Could you characterize in a few words what that design

issue

> is that
> > they've corrected And
> >
> > - How difficult is it to swap the jacks, i.e. time required, skill
> > involved
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: (i think you can figure that out)
> > > [mailto:peter@b...]
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 11:43 AM
> > > To: Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: 1 Re: Replacement jack - CLIFF
> > >
> > >
> > > Analogue Solutions, Analogue Systems and Deopfer all

use

> > > CLIFF jacks - they are the manufacturer. Moog also uses
> them,
> > > but in 1/4 inch, not 3.5mm.
> > >
> > > The problems that probably most of use have seen with
> these
> > > jacks was due to a design issue that Cliff has since
> corrected.
> > > Most of the D and A. Sys modules shipped in the ast year
> have
> > > already had these new jacks installed.
> > >
> > > Until recently, these jacks weren't availible in te US piece
> parts,
> > > but CLIFF USA (in the bay area) has got them.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "ps_minor"
> > > <pscottm@h...> wrote:
> > > > thanks for thie info. who is cliff
> > > >
> > > > i have 3 Asys module jacks that need to be replaced.
> > > >
> > > > cheers, -psm
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "(i think you can
> figure
> > > that out)" <peter@b...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Doepfites,
> > > > >
> > > > > I got a handful of the new and improved jacks from Cliff
> last
> > > week
> > > > > to replace the older design inherent in my D and A. Sys
> > > modules
> > > > > that in some cases had become problematic.
> > > > >
> > > > > There are definite differences to the spring tension and
> while
> > > it
> > > > > makes for a slightly less smooth insertion 'clunk' , I'm
> pretty
> > > > > confident these new guys will go the distance. I
> recommend
> > > > > them to anyone who's current jacks may be failing.
> > > > >
> > > > > - P
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > >
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> > >
> > >
> > >