ilanode,

Whoops sorry for the Ingo mix-up, I actually meant to ask
selfoscillate to pop out his module, but either way..... I thought
perhaps since there was already the electrolytic on top it would do
the polarity work and any old 100uF could be slapped on the bottom. I
guess that probably wouldn't work now that I think about it... I've
got some spare parts here from other DIY projects and just don't want
to go out for a component I don't need. I may have one anyway, I'll
have to check and if so I'll go ahead and do it, do it. Thanks for
the input.

Anyone else considering this mod as DIY, make sure the cap is rated
at 16V or more!

Cheers,

Nick Keller


--- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "ilanode" <techmeier@w...>
wrote:

>
> Nick, you must not replace but add a R. I'm no techhead but since

C1

> is a polarized cap you have to add another electrolytic one, but I
> could be mislead. Anyhow, electrolytic caps are the favorite caps

of

> anybody new to electronics since it is fairly easy to read their
> value: It is imprinted on them without using any cryptic code. But
> you have to mind their +/- leads!
> I just did the mod and I'm very satisfied. But no thouroughly
> experimantation so far since I'm busy with other things and won't
> break up my current patch (not involving the A120). Regards, Ingo
> (not self-oscilating)
>
> --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "nirokesan" <nirokesan@h...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ingo,
> >
> > Thanks for the help so far..... but perhaps we might still hear
> from
> > Doepfer staff on the topic Could you maybe pop out the 120

and

> > have a look at the underside for these added components All I
> did
> > so far was replace the R15 (22K on my v1.1995) so I can just

stick

> > that back on the underside, but the 100 (whoa, where did you find
> > that micro symbol ) to be added at C1, is that also electrolytic
> > (like the one on top) or is it a different type Compare to one
> on
> > top....I see 5 different types..the big blue ones are 100u
> > electrolytic....As standard (120v1) there should be no other

parts

> on
> > the underside of the board.
> >
> > I really do appreciate your effort so far. I thought all I
> needed
> > was the resistor as described in the DIY page. After testing the
> 120
> > with the 10K instead of the 22K I really didn't notice much of a
> > difference, but I didn't meter the dB, I just listened

for 'drive'.

> >
> > Holy crap, I just looked at your website and at your latest pic.
> > WOW! I know a few members on here are pretty well stocked too,
> but
> > that is still very impressive. I like the look of your Reaktor
> stuff
> > too, an incredible bit of software, my favorite actually. When I
> > have more time later today I'll check out the music section.
> >
> > Take care and hope to hear back,
> >
> > Nick Keller
> >
> >
> > --- In Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com , "ilanode" <techmeier@w...>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > > 10k added at R15
> > > > > 100µ added at C1
> > >
> > > Sorry, but one can't read R15 on the board without de-soldering
> the
> > > Rs. Pls, could someone verify wether R15 is the 22K resistor in-
> > > between C1 and C12 Regards, Ingo a.k.a.